UNIVERSITY   OF  CALIFORNIA        AGRICULTURAL  EXPERIMENT  STATION 

BENJ.    IDE    WHEELER,    President 

COLLEGE    OF    AGRICULTURE  thomas  forsyth  hunt,  dean  and  d, rector 

nrpi/ri    py  H.  E.   VAN    NORMAN,    Vice-Director    and    Dean 

DLnl\LLL  Y  University  Farm  School 

CIRCULAR  No.  130 
(June,  1915) 

CABBAGE  GROWING  IN  CALIFORNIA 

By  STANLEY  S.  ROGERS 


CONTENTS 

PAGE 

Introduction 1 

Early  History  of  Cabbage  Growing  2 

Types  and  Varieties  2 

The  Cabbage  as  a  Truck  Crop  3 

The  Cabbage  as  an  Inter-crop  4 

The  Cabbage  as  a  Market  Garden  Crop  4 

Soils  5 

Moisture  5 

Climatic  Requirements  5 

Growing  and  Subsequent  Care  of  the  Plants  5 

Time  of  Planting  and  Quality  of  Seed  9 

Preparation  of  the  Field  10 

Planting  and  Subsequent  Care  of  the  Plants  11 

Harvesting  13 

Storing   13 

Marketing    15 

Cost  of  Production  and  Profits  16 

Diseases    17 

Insect  Pests 19 


INTRODUCTION 

The  object  of  this  publication  is  to  give  a  few  suggestions  to  the 
new  settler  and  grower  who  is  unaccustomed  to  the  cultural  require- 
ments of  cabbage  under  California  conditions.  As  the  local  influences 
in  this  state  are  so  variable,  it  is  difficult  to  give  specific  directions 
for  the  culture  of  this  crop  which  will  be  entirely  applicable  to 
every  cabbage  producing  section.  The  investigations  and  observations 
here  recorded  have  been  carried  on  in  the  central  and  southern 
portions  of  California. 

In  the  early  history  of  vegetable  growing  in  California,  the  pro- 
duction of  cabbage  was  commonly  mentioned.  During  the  year  1886 
an  article  appeared  in  the  Pacific  Rural  Press  in  which  the  writer 
stated  that  the  conditions  found  in  California  were  very  well  adapted 


for  growing  this  crop  and  that  as  high  as  $800  per  acre  had  been 
realized  during  the  past  year  by  some  of  the  growers.  During  the 
season  of  1899,  there  was  approximately  8000  acres  of  cabbage  grown 
in  the  vicinity  of  Colma,  San  Mateo  County. 

During  the  past  ten  years  there  has  been  developed  throughout  the 
east  a  large  demand  for  California-grown  cabbage,  especially  during 
the  late  winter  and  spring,  when  the  eastern  cabbage  dealers  are  short 
of  stock.  Owing  largely  to  better  marketing  facilities,  the  cabbage 
industry  has  grown  rapidly  until  now  there  are  annually  shipped  from 
California  approximately  1000  cars.  The  future  for  this  industry 
appears  to  be  very  encouraging,  so  that  at  the  present  time  there  is  a 
large  general  interest  in  the  cultivation  of  this  crop. 

EARLY  HISTORY  OF  CABBAGE  GROWING 

irThe  Common  Cabbage  (Brassica  olerasea)  is  probably  a  native  of 
the  British  Isles  and  of  the  northern  coast  of  the  Mediterranean  Sea. 
The  date  of  its  cultivation  is  very  ancient,  having  been  in  general 
use  prior  to  the  Aryan  Invasion,  which  dates  back  2000  or  2500  years 
B.C.  and  used  in  its  wild  state  for  food  at  even  an  earlier  date  than  this. 

2"The  wild  cabbage  as  it  still  exists  on  the  coast  of  England  and 
France,  is  a  perennial  plant  with  broad  lobed,  undulated,  thick,  smooth 
leaves  covered  with  a  glaucous  bloom.  The  stem  attains  a  height 
of  two  and  one-half  to  over  three  feet  and  bears  at  the  top  a  spike 
of  yellow  and  sometimes  white  flowers."  From  this  original  type 
the  plant  has  changed,  by  selection  and  breeding,  until  it  is  now 
found  in  several  forms  such  as  the  common  solid  head  cabbage, 
cauliflower,  Brussels  sprouts,  etc. 

TYPES    AND    VARIETIES 

C.  L.  Allen,  in  his  book  entitled,  "Cabbages  Cauliflower,"  divides 
the  common  cabbage  into  five  distinct  types:  1,  the  Flat  head  type; 
2,  the  Conical  shaped  head ;  3,  the  Savoy  group ;  4,  the  Red  cabbage ; 
5,  the  Danish  or  Holland  ball  head.  There  are  also  numerous  varia- 
tions of  these,  some  having  special  advantages  such  as  extra  early, 
partial  resistance  to  extreme  cold  or  heat,  excellent  storage  qualities, 
etc.  There  is  a  large  number  of  varieties  of  cabbage  under  cultivation, 
and  Robinson  in  his  book  entitled  '  ■  The  Vegetable  Garden ' '  mentions 
over  one  hundred  specific  varieties,  of  which  comparatively  few  are 
grown  in  California. 

iDe   Candolle   "History  of   Cultivated  Plants."     Page   83. 
*W.  W.  Robertson,  "The  Vegetable  Garden,"  pp.  117-118. 


3 

In  the  choice  of  a  variety  there  are  several  factors  that  must  be 
carefully  taken  into  consideration  such  as  the  demands  of  the  market, 
the  season  at  which  the  crop  is  to  be  grown,  type  of  soil,  moisture 
conditions  during  the  period  of  growth  and  the  uses  to  which  the 
crop  is  to  be  put.  For  one  who  is  not  thoroughly  accustomed  to  the 
local  conditions  under  which  this  crop  is  to  be  produced,  it  is  always 
a  good  plan  to  consult  with  those  in  the  immediate  vicinity  who  have 
made  a  success  of  growing  cabbage.  The  following  list  contains  the 
names  of  the  varieties  which  are  commonly  grown  in  California,  to- 
gether with  a  brief  description  of  each. 

Early  Flat  Dutch. — This  variety  is  widely  grown  in  California 
and  is  especially  popular  in  the  central  portion  of  the  state  for  the 
late  winter  and  spring  crop  and  for  the  manufacture  of  sauerkraut. 
The  heads  are  large,  flat,  solid,  of  good  keeping  quality  and  they 
mature  early. 

Late  Flat  Dutch. — This  variety  is  similar  to  the  preceding,  but 
matures  more  slowly  and  is  commonly  used  for  the  mid-winter  crop 
as  well  as  for  manufacturing  sauerkraut. 

Early  Jersey  Wakefield. — This  variety  is  popular  throughout  Cali- 
fornia on  account  of  its  early  maturing  qualities.  The  heads  are 
small  and  conical  in  shape. 

Early  W 'inning stadt. — This  is  a  very  popular  variety  and  is  one 
of  the  best  for  field  cuUure.  It  is  especially  common  in  southern 
California  for  eastern  shipments  and  generally  commands  the  highest 
price  on  the  market.  As  the  young  plants  stand  the  heat  well  it 
is  especially  valuable  for  planting  in  the  spring  and  summer.  The 
heads  are  medium  in  size,  conical,  very  solid,  and  their  keeping  quali- 
ties are  excellent. 

Early  York. — This  variety  is  grown  commonly  throughout  Cali- 
fornia and  is  particularly  well  adapted  for  the  early  spring  crop. 
The  heads  are  oval,  small  and  excellent  in  flavor,  although  not  as 
solid  as  some  of  the  other  varieties. 

Sure  Head. — This  variety  is  grown  to  some  extent  in  this  state. 
The  heads  are  large,  flat,  solid,  of  good  flavor  and  the  keeping  qualities 
are  excellent.     It  is  a  late  variety  and  an  excellent  shipper. 

THE  CABBAGE  AS  A  TRUCK  CROP 

Due  to  the  mild  climate  during  the  winter  months  it  is  possible, 

in  many  sections  of  the  state,  to  mature  a  crop  of  cabbage  at  the 

season  in  which  it  is  generally  scarce  in  the  colder  portions  of  the 

United  States,  thus  making  the  growing  of  winter  cabbage  for  long 


distance  shipments  especially  remunerative.  Cabbage,  at  this  season 
of  the  year,  is  generally  produced  near  the  city  of  Los  Angeles,  and 
through  certain  parts  of  the  Sacramento  and  San  Joaquin  Valleys. 
When  grown  as  a  truck  crop,  the  average  size  planting  varies  from 
5  to  40  acres.  The  markets  for  this  crop  are  rather  uncertain,  in 
some  years  offering  as  high  as  $40  or  $50  per  ton  for  the  grower, 
while  in  others,  because  of  the  uncertainty  of  the  eastern  markets, 
the  prices  are  so  low  as  to  prohibit  harvesting.  The  shipping  season 
generally  commences  during  November  and  lasts  until  April,  May, 
or  June.  The  Winningstadt  is  the  variety  commonly  grown  for 
winter  cabbage,  while  the  Flat  Dutch  or  Early  York  are  the  popular 
spring  varieties.  The  plants  are  set  in  the  field  from  August  to 
February.  The  soil  for  this  crop  should  be  well  drained,  especially 
in  localities  where  winter  rains  are  abundant. 

THE  CABBAGE  AS  AN  INTER-CROP 

Cabbage  is  grown  extensively  as  an  intercrop  between  young 
trees  and  where  the  conditions  such  as  moisture  and  soil  fertility  are 
favorable  this  practice  is  recommended.  The  rows  of  cabbage  should 
be  at  least  four  to  six  feet  from  the  trees  leaving  sufficient  space 
for  the  cultivation  of  the  latter.  Cabbage  thus  planted  is  generally 
grown  during  the  winter  months  when  the  trees  are  in  a  semi-dormant 
condition  and  the  amount  of  moisture  in  the  soil  is  generally  abund- 
ant for  both  crops.  Where  irrigation  is  practiced,  it  is  very  essential 
that  enough  water  should  be  applied  so  that  the  trees  do  not  suffer. 
Much  of  the  cabbage  in  the  southern  part  of  the  state  grown  for  long 
distance  shipments  is  produced  under  these  conditions. 

CABBAGE    AS    A    MARKET    GARDEN   CROP 

There  is  probably  no  market  garden  in  the  state  in  which  cabbage 
is  not  grown  during  some  season  of  the  year.  It  is  a  common  practice 
to  plant  cabbage  for  fall  and  winter  use  on  the  land  which  was  used 
for  growing  early  potatoes.  If  the  demand  for  this  vegetable  is  rather 
limited,  the  amount  of  cabbage  grown  should  not  be  greater  than  the 
markets  can  handle  and  it  is  sometimes  better  to  make  two  or  three 
plantings  at  intervals  of  a  month  or  six  weeks  apart,  than  to  plant 
the  entire  area  at  one  time.  The  ground  in  which  the  plants  are 
to  be  set  is  generally  heavily  manured  a  short  time  before  planting. 
In  the  market  gardens  along  the  coast,  cabbage  is  generally  grown 
through  the  entire  year,  but  in  the  interior  valleys  the  planting  is 
done  so  that  the  crop  will  mature  during  the  fall,  winter  and  early 


spring  months.  Other  quick  maturing  crops  such  as  lettuce  etc.,  are 
often  planted  between  the  cabbage  plants  and  harvested  before  the 
cabbage  needs  the  land.  The  Flat  Dutch,  Early  York,  Winingstadt, 
and  the  Early  Jersey  Wakefield,  are  the  most  popular  varieties  for 
the  market  gardener. 

SOILS 

Cabbage  will  grow  on  soils  ranging  from  coarse  sand  to  adobe,  but 
the  character  of  the  soil  is  one  of  the  most  important  factors  which 
determine  the  yield  and  quality  of  the  crop.  Soil  well  adapted  for 
cabbage  growing  should  be  rich  in  potash  and  phosphoric  acid,  contain 
a  good  supply  of  humus,  hold  moisture  well  and  be  friable.  The 
yield  is  usually  larger  upon  the  heavier  types  of  soils,  although  occa- 
sionally during  the  Avinter  when  the  rainfall  is  heavy  a  soil  of  lighter 
type  may  yield  better. 

Cabbage  should  not  be  grown  the  second  time  on  the  same  land 
without  a  rotation  unless  the  soil  is  exceptionally  good  in  quality  or 
has  been  heavily  fertilized,  because  this  crop  is  a  heavy  feeder. 

MOISTURE 

Cabbage  requires  a  large  amount  of  soil  moisture  throughout  its 
entire  growth,  making  irrigation  necessary.  Occasionally  during  the 
rainy  season  the  plants  receive  too  much  water,  and  good  drainage 
becomes  necessary,  for  they  may  be  injured  as  much  by  an  excessive 
amount  of  moisture  as  by  an  inadequate  supply. 

Climatic  Requirements. — Cabbage  is  one  of  the  most  hardy  vege- 
tables grown  and  will  thrive  during  cold  weather  that  would  kill 
such  crops  as  potatoes,  beans  and  melons.  It  is  therefore  especially 
valuable  as  a  winter  crop  and  the  land  may  be  used  for  the  more 
tender  vegetables  during  the  warmer  season  of  the  year.  In  growing 
this  crop  in  the  winter  it  is  a  very  common  sight  to  see  the  leaves 
covered  with  frost  or  with  a  thin  layer  of  ice  in  the  mornings  with  no 
apparent  injury.  The  ability  of  the  cabbage  to  stand  heat  is  not 
nearly  so  great  as  its  resistance  to  cold  so  that  in  the  interior  valleys 
it  is  difficult  and  often  impossible  to  secure  a  head  of  good  quality 
during  the  hot  dry  summers. 

GROWING  AND  SUBSEQUENT  CARE  OF  THE  PLANTS 

Hot-Beds. — When  growing  the  young  plants  during  the  cold  winter 

months  it  is  necessary  in  some  localities  to  start  them  in  hot-beds. 

These  should  be  constructed  in  a  warm  well  drained  place,  preferably 

on  the  south  side  of  a  building  or  fence  well  protected  from  the 


cold  winds.  They  should  also  be  situated  so  that  they  can  be  easily 
visited  and,  if  possible,  running  water  should  be  convenient  for 
sprinkling.  Of  the  several  methods  for  construction  of  hot-beds,  the 
following  is  commonly  used  by  vegetable  growers  in  this  state.  A  pit 
should  first  be  dug  from  one  and  one-half  to  two  and  one-half  feet 
deep,  five  or  six  feet  wide  and  as  long  as  convenient.  Around  this 
should  be  built  the  sides  of  boards  or  cement,  the  one  on  the  south  six 
inches  to  one  foot  high  and  the  north  side  from  two  to  three  feet  in 
height  with  the  ends  connecting  the  sides.  Place  fresh  horse  manure, 
mixed  with  straw  as  it  comes  from  the  stable,  in  this  excavation  to  a 
depth  of  from  one  to  two  feet,  sprinkle  and  tamp  thoroughly.  In  a  few 
days  the  manure  should  be  examined  and  if  it  is  not  heating  evenly, 
it  should  be  thoroughly  forked  over,  tamped  and  rewet  and  after 
heating  satisfactorily,  covered  from  eight  inches  to  one  foot  with  soil 
of  a  sandy  nature  mixed  with  a  heavy  coating  of  well-rotted  horse 
manure.  After  smoothing,  the  earth  should  be  watered  and  allowed 
to  remain  in  this  condition  for  a  few  days  before  planting.  The  beds 
may  be  covered  with  glass  sash,  tule,  grass  mats  or  muslin;  the  last 
covering  affording  sufficient  protection  in  most  localities. 

Seeding  and  Care  of  Plants. — The  seed  may  be  planted  in  a  hot 
bed  in  drills  from  two  to  five  inches  apart  and  running  the  width  of 
the  bed  or  broadcasted.  Under  the  right  management  either  method 
is  satisfactory.  The  main  advantage  of  the  former  over  the  latter  is 
that  it  gives  an  opportunity  for  cultivating  the  earth  between  the  rows 
of  plants.  After  planting,  the  seed  should  be  covered  from  one  half 
to  three  quarters  of  an  inch  with  light  well-drained  soil  or  sand  which 
will  dry  quickly  and  not  bake  and  crack  when  wet.  It  will  aid  in 
germinating  if  burlap  or  muslin  be  laid  on  the  soil  until  the  young 
plants  have  reached  the  surface.  After  the  plants  have  appeared 
at  the  surface,  water  should  be  applied  in  such  a  manner  that  the 
tops  and  surface  of  the  soil  will  dry  as  quickly  as  possible.  Water- 
ing should  be  done  preferably  in  the  morning  wThen  the  sun  is 
shining  and  it  is  better  to  water  seldom  but  thoroughly  than  to 
apply  small  amounts  often.  After  the  true  leaves  have  grown,  the 
plants  should  be  thinned  wherever  they  are  too  thick,  especially  if 
the  seed  has  been  broadcasted.  If  the  plants  are  growing  in  rows, 
the  earth  between  them  should  be  stirred  thoroughly  after  each  appli- 
cation of  water.  The  covering  of  the  beds  can  be  removed  during 
warm  days  and  if  the  plants  are  to  be  set  in  the  field  directly  from 
a  hot  bed,  it  should  be  entirely  removed  a  few  days  before  they  are 
to  be  taken  out.  The  taking  off  of  the  top  however,  should  be  gradual 
in  order  to  accustom  the  plants  to  the  exposure. 


Removing  the  Plants  from  the  Bed. — In  order  that  the  growth  of 
the  plants  be  checked  as  little  as  possible  by  transplanting  they  should 
be  hardened  off  and  lifted  in  such  a  manner  that  as  many  of  the  roots 
as  possible  may  be  preserved.  The  plants  may  be  hardened  off  by  stop- 
ping the  irrigation  a  week  or  ten  days  before  transplanting,  and  by 
gradually  removing  the  cover  until  it  has  been  entirely  taken  off  a 
few  days  before  the  plants  are  taken  out.  There  are  two  methods 
for  lifting  the  plants  from  the  beds :  namely,  pulling  them  up 
by  grasping  the  tops  in  the  hands,  and  by  the  aid  of  a  trowel  or 
shovel;  the  first  method  is  commonly  used  by  experienced  growers 
and  is  satisfactory  if  the  soil  is  in  proper  condition.  For  those  who 
have  had  little  or  no  experience  the  latter  method  will  be  found  more 
satisfactory,  as  it  is  very  important  that  the  plants  be  removed  in 
such  a  manner  that  the  root  systems  will  be  but  slightly  disturbed, 
since  the  fibrous  roots  are  necessary  in  order  that  they  may  become 
quickly  established  in  the  field.  It  will  aid  greatly  in  preserving  the 
roots  if  the  bed  is  thoroughly  irrigated  a  few  hours  before  taking  out 
the  plants.  If  the  plants  are  large,  the  tops  and  the  roots  should 
be  cut  back  leaving  the  latter  one  inch  in  length.  If  the  plants 
have  made  too  rapid  a  growth  and  are  not  stocky,  they  should  be 
transplanted  to  cold  frames  before  setting  in  the  field  Figure  1 
shows  the  result  of  removing  the  plants  from  the  bed  properly  and 
improperly.  The  best  method  is  one  which  will  preserve  as  many 
of  the  small  roots  as  possible,  as  illustrated  in  the  plant  appearing 
at  the  right.  Figure  2  shows  a  large  plant  which  has  been  properly 
trimmed  back  for  transplanting. 

Cold-Frames. — The  cold-frame  is  probably  more  commonly  used 
than  the  hot-bed  for  growing  young  cabbage  plants  and  where  the 
weather  conditions  are  not  too  severe,  this  type  of  bed  is  recommended 
for  the  plants  are  thus  more  hardy  and  stocky.  Cold  frames  may  be 
built  similarly  to  hot-beds,  with  the  exception  that  no  artificial  heat 
is  used  and  under  ordinary  conditions  no  pit  is  dug.  The  location  of 
the  bed,  seeding,  care  of  the  plants,  etc.,  are  the  same  as  in  the  case 
of  the  hot-bed,  the  main  difference  being  that  the  growth  of  the  plants 
is  a  little  slower  in  this  form  of  bed. 

Growing  the  Plants  in  the  Open. — In  many  sections  of  California 
the  climate  is  so  mild  that  it  is  not  necessary  to  have  the  protection  of 
even  the  cold-frame.  Plants  grown  in  the  open  are  hardier  and  more 
uniform  in  size  than  when  some  protection  is  given  so  that  this 
method  of  growing  plants  is  advocated  in  preference  to  either  of  the 
former,  provided  the  climatic  conditions  are  suitable.  These  beds 
should   be   located   in   a   warm,    well-drained   place,    protected   from 


8 


cold  winds.  The  soil  should  be  well  drained,  friable  and  of  good 
quality.  It  is  often  advisable  to  spade  under  a  heavy  coating  of  well 
rotted  stable  manure  a  few  weeks  prior  to  planting  in  order  to 
encourage  a  fast  growth  in  the  plants.     These  beds  may  be  either 


Fig.  1. — As  many  small  roots  as  possible  should 
be  preserved  when  transplanting.  Plant  on  right 
properly  removed. 


sunken  or  raised,  the  former  type  being  used  when  growing  the  plants 
during  the  drier  months.  Sunken  beds  are  generally  three  to  four 
feet  wide,  four  to  six  inches  deep,  and  six  to  ten  feet  long,  and  the 
earth  taken  from  these  beds  is  thrown  up  to  form  a  levee  around 
each  bed  which  aids  in  irrigating  the  plants.  When  planting  the  seed 
during  the  winter  months  and  especially  in  locations  where  the  rainfall 
is  heavy,  the  raised  beds  will  be  found  more  advantageous,  for  the 


drainage  is  better  and  the  soil  will  warm  up  much  more  quickly  than 
that  in  the  sunken  beds.  Raised  beds  are  made  by  making  ridges 
ten  to  eighteen  inches  wide,  four  inches  high  and  ten  feet  long.  The 
thinning,  irrigating,  and  removal  of  the  plants  when  growing1  in  the 


Fig.  2. — Large  plant  properly  trimmed  back  for 
transplanting 

open  is  practically  the  same  as  though  the   cold-frame  or   hot-bed 
were  used. 

TIME    OF    PLANTING    AND    QUALITY    OF    SEED 
During  the  cold  months  the  seed  should  be  planted  from  eight  to 
ten  weeks   before  the   time  for  setting  out   in  the   field,   but   when 
growing  during  the  warmer  season,  they  will  often  reach  the  desired 


10 


size  in  six  weeks  from  the  time  of  sowing  the  seed.  The  amount  of 
seed  required  to  grow  enough  plants  for  setting  out  one  acre  depends 
largely  on  the  method  necessary,  the  germinating  power  of  the  seed, 
and  the  variety.  Under  ordinary  conditions  from  four  to  five  ounces 
of  seed  will  a^row  a  sufficient  supply  of  plants  for  one  acre  of  land. 

PREPARATION    OF    FIELD    PREVIOUS    TO    PLANTING 
In  order  that  the  young  plants  may  start  well  after  being  set 
in  the  field,  the  soil  should  be  in  a  good  condition  of  tilth  and  free 


Fig.  3. — Growing  cabbage  plants  in  the  open 

from  weeds.  When  cabbage  is  grown  as  a  market  garden  crop  the 
soil  generally  receives  manure  at  the  rate  of  from  fifteen  to  twenty- 
five  tons  per  acre;  as  much  as  fifty  tons  being  applied  in  some  cases. 
The  manure  should  be  immediately  plowed  under  to  a  depth  of  from 
ten  to  fourteen  inches  and  the  plants  can  be  set  out  as  soon  as  the 
manure  has  begun  to  rot.  During  the  drier  months  the  land  is 
generally  irrigated  immediately  after  being  manured.  It  is  then 
plowed  and  occasionally  a  second  application  of  water  is  beneficial. 
Just  previous  to  planting,  the  soil  should  be  thoroughly  reworked  to 
a  depth  of  six  to  ten  inches,  by  means  of  a  disc  or  a  heavy  cultivator, 
followed  by   a   harrow,   clod  masher,   or   ring  roller.     Where   it  is 


11 


advisable  to  fertilize  before  planting  but  impracticable  to  obtain 
manure,  the  following  application  of  commercial  fertilizer  recom- 
mended by  Professor  Corbett,  may  be  made  :3  1200  to  1500  pounds 
per  acre  of  commercial  fertilizer  containing  3y2  to  4  per  cent  nitrogen, 
6  to  8  per  cent  phosphoric  acid,  and  8  to  10  per  cent  potash.  Just 
before  planting  the  field  should  be  marked  off  showing  the  location 
for  the  rows  of  plants. 

Setting  the  Plants  in  the  Field. — The  average  distance  between 
the  cabbage  plants  varies  from  two  to  two  and  one-half  feet,  the  rows 


Fig.  4. — Cabbages  when  transplanted  are  placed  on  the  edges  of  the  furrows 


being  from  two  and  one-half  to  three  feet  apart;  the  exact  distance 
depending  largely  upon  the  variety,  upon  quality  of  the  soil  and 
the  water  supply.  If  the  distance  between  the  plants  is  two  by  two 
and  one-half  feet  there  will  be  8712  plants  per  acre,  and  5808  plants 
to  the  acre  if  the  distance  is  increased  to  two  and  one-half  by  three 
feet.  During  the  drier  months  the  plants  are  usually  set  on  the  edge 
of  furrows  down  which  water  is  run,  as  shown  in  figure  4.  These 
furrows  can  be  made  with  several  of  the  cultivator  attachments  or 
with  a  single  plow  and  are  usually  from  three  to  five  inches  deep 
and  six  inches  wide.     When  growing  the  plants  during  the  winter 


3  ' '  Garden  Farming, ' '  p.  174. 


12 


in  sections  in  which  the  rainfall  is  very  heavy  and  especially  when 
the  soil  is  not  well  drained,  these  furrows  or  ditches  are  used  for 
carrying  off  the  surplus  water.  The  plants  should  be  set  in  the  field 
a  little  more  deeply  than  they  grew  in  the  seed  bed,  and  in  such  a 
manner  that  their  roots  will  not  be  twisted  nor  broken,  and  the  earth 
should  be  packed  firmly  around  every  one  in  order  to  prevent  the 
roots  from  drying.  The  transplanting  is  usually  done  by  the  aid  of 
a  trowel,  spade,  or  "scandigie,"  the  last  implement  being  used  princi- 
pally by  the  Italians  and  it  is  especially  adapted  for  this  work. 


Fig.  5. — ' '  Scandigie ' '  used  for  transplanting 


Cultivation. —  From  the  time  the  plants  have  commenced  to  grow 
until  the  leaves  cover  the  ground,  the  field  should  be  thoroughly 
cultivated  and  hoed,  always  preserving  a  fine  mulch  on  the  surface 
and  prohibiting  all  weed  growth.  The  earth  should  not  be  stirred 
too  close  to  the  plants  nor  too  deeply  after  they  are  first  set  out  as 
there  is  danger  of  injuring  their  roots. 

Irrigation. — The  exact  number  of  times  the  cabbage  fields  should 
be  irrigated  depends  wholly  on  the  local  conditions.  During  the  fall 
and  winter,  irrigation  is  an  exception  but  during  the  summer  months 
the  water  may  be  applied  as  often  as  every  ten  days  or  two  weeks. 
In  order  that  the  plants  may  make  their  maximum  growth  an  optimum 
amount  of  water  should  always  be   present   in   the  soil.     Water  is 


13 

generally  applied  by  running  it  in  furrows  six  to  eight  inches  deep 
between  the  rows  of  plants.  These  furrows  are  made  by  the  use 
of  the  lister,  single  plow  or  several  of  the  various  cultivator  attach- 
ments. Enough  water  should  be  put  on  at  each  application,  to  thor- 
oughly moisten  the  soil  to  a  depth  of  from  two  to  four  feet.  This 
is  preferable  to  more  frequent  irrigations  which  wet  only  the  top  foot. 
Where  water  is  easily  and  cheaply  obtained,  there  is  a  tendency  to 
substitute  irrigation  for  cultivation,  but  this  practice  is  not  recom- 
mended for  it  is  always  better  to  preserve  the  moisture  in  the  soil 
by  thorough  cultivation  than  by  repeated  irrigations.  When  cabbage 
is  grown  in  the  winter,  the  question  of  drainage  is  often  more  impor- 
tant than  irrigation,  for  the  crop  may  be  seriously  injured  by  an 
over-supply  of  moisture,  especially  after  the  heads  have  formed.  This 
surplus  water  can  often  be  removed  by  furrows  similar  to  those  used 
for  irrigation. 

HARVESTING 

When  harvesting,  the  field  is  generally  gone  over  two  or  three 
times  during  the  season  as  all  of  the  heads  do  not  mature  at  the  same 
time  and  it  is  very  essential  that  they  be  in  proper  condition  before 
being  cut.  If  cut  before  properly  matured,  the  heads  will  be  of 
inferior  quality  and  will  not  keep  well.  If  the  cabbage  is  allowed 
to  remain  in  the  field  too  long  the  heads  will  "split"  thus  making 
them  unmarketable.  A  properly  matured  head  of  cabbage  should 
be  firm,  the  outer  leaves  should  be  yellow,  in  color  and  their  growth 
stopped.  Cabbage,  for  long  distance  shipments,  should  not  be  trimmed 
as  closely  as  that  produced  for  local  markets,  for  the  outer  leaves 
will  protect  the  center  of  the  head.  Although  cabbage  will  stand 
considerable  rough  handling  it  should  be  placed  on  wagons  and  cars 
in  such  a  manner  that  it  will  not  be  bruised  more  than  is  necessary. 
After  being  cut  the  cabbage  is  hauled  directly  to  the  packing  house, 
market,  or  storehouse. 

STORING 

In  the  central  or  southern  portions  of  the  state,  storage  is  generally 
unnecessary  as  the  crop  is  sold  directly  from  the  field.  In  the 
northern  and  mountainous  sections  it  is  often  desirable  and  sometimes 
necessary  to  harvest  the  crop  a  considerable  time  before  it  is  to  be 
sold.  When  growing  cabbage  for  storage  a  variety  should  be  selected 
which  will  keep  well  and  fully  mature  before  harvesting.  It  should 
never  be  cut  when  frozen  or  wet,  nor  should  it  be  trimmed  as  closely 


14 


as  that  cut  for  immediate  consumption.  Cabbage  which  is  to  be 
stored,  should  be  handled  very  carefully,  for  every  bruise  is  liable  to 
start  decay  later  on.  Of  the  several  methods  of  storing  cabbage,  the 
one  most  commonly  practiced  in  California  is  that  of  a  storage  pit 
made  by  plowing  a  double  furrow  one  and  one-half  by  three  feet  wide 
and  from  twelve  to  fourteen  inches  deep.  Cabbages  to  be  thus  stored 
are  generally  pulled  up  by  the  roots,  the  outer  and  dead  leaves  removed 
and  the  heads  placed  in  the  pits  either  on  their  sides  or  with  the 


,4 


Fig.  6. — Interior  of  cabbage  storehouse  (after  L.  C.  Corbett) 


heads  downward.  Earth  or  straw  or  a  mixture  of  both  should  be 
placed  over  them  to  a  depth  sufficient  to  give  ample  protection  from 
the  cold.  The  earth  used  for  storing  should  be  well  drained  and  of 
a  sandy  nature.  If  a  large  amount  of  cabbage  is  to  be  stored  a 
special  building  or  shed  should  be  erected  which  should  be  well  venti- 
lated, water-tight  and  warm.  Professor  Corbett4  describes  an  ideal 
cabbage  storehouse  as  follows: 

' '  The  general  type  of  storage  house  is  that  of  the  broad,  low  struc- 
ture with  an  alley  in  the  center  sufficiently  wide  to  admit  a  team,  as 


*  "Garden  Farming,"  pp.  181  and  182. 


15 

shown  in  figure  6,  and  with  the  storage  bins  or  shelves  arranged  on 
either  side.  If  bins  are  used,  they  should  be  narrow  and  not  more 
than  sixteen  or  eighteen  feet  from  the  front  to  back,  and  the  cabbage 
not  more  than  six  or  seven  feet  in  depth  from  the  floor  to  the  ceiling. 
Several  bins  may  be  placed  one  above  the  other  in  the  same  tier  if 
there  is  a  waterproof  floor  between  them  so  that  the  drip  from  decay- 
ing cabbage  or  other  moisture  in  one  bin  cannot  reach  the  bin  below. 
In  general,  the  bins  are  not  as  satisfactory  as  the  shelves.  As  is 
suggested  in  the  illustration,  the  heads  may  be  stored  on  the  shelves 
in  single  layers  or  in  two-layer,  or  three  layer  depths. ' '  When  storing 
cabbages  in  houses  the  roots  are  cut  off  and  the  tops  are  generally 
trimmed  more  closely  than  when  they  are  stored  in  pits.  Professor 
Corbett5  gives  the  following  suggestions  for  keeping  cabbage  in  storage. 
' '  The  secret  of  success  in  the  management  of  a  storage  warehouse  is 
to  have  disease-free,  well-matured,  firm,  carefully  handled  stock  grown 
from  high-grade  seed  and  a  storage  house  so  constructed  that  a 
temperature  of  about  34  degrees  F.  can  be  maintained  throughout  the 
whole  storge  period.  This  means  that  as  soon  as  the  house  is  filled, 
it  must  be  kept  closed  during  the  day  and  open  as  much  as  possible 
during  the  night,  so  as  to  get  the  benefit  of  the  low  night  tempera- 
tures. Every  possible  advantage  must  be  taken  of  the  frosty  nights 
which  occur  during  the  storage  period."  Cabbage  should  never  be 
taken  out  until  ready  to  be  shipped  to  the  market. 


MABKETING 

When  growing  large  acreages  the  most  advantageous  method  of 
marketing  is  in  carload  lots  through  wholesale  produce  houses  or 
associations.  Cabbages  thus  sold  may  be  loaded  on  the  cars  as  dug 
out  of  the  field  or  packed  in  crates,  barrels  or  sacks.  When  a  small 
acreage  is  grown,  the  crop  may  be  hauled  to  the  local  market  in 
wagons  where  it  is  sold  directly  to  the  retail  dealer,  which  method 
is  commonly  practiced  by  the  gardeners  growing  miscellaneous  vege- 
tables in  the  vicinity  of  the  larger  cities.  The  common  form  of 
packages  in  which  cabbage  is  shipped  is  the  New  York  crate,  holding 
from  100  to  135  pounds,  and  a  larger  crate  holding  between  175  and 
215  pounds,  the  cost  of  each  being  approximately  30  cents.  Cabbage 
for  the  local  market  is  commonly  handled  uncrated  in  the  wagons  and 
sold  in  this  condition. 


5  Loc.  tit.,  p.  182. 


16 


COST  OF  PRODUCTION  AND  PROFITS 
The  average  cost  of  production  and  profits  to  be  derived  from 
growing  cabbage  varies  considerably,  depending  largely  on  the  soil, 
season  in  which  grown,  and  acreage  management.  The  following  table 
shows  the  average  cost  of  raising  one  acre  of  cabbage  under  ordinary 
conditions.  As  the  value  of  the  land  used  for  cabbage  growing  is  so 
variable,  the  interest  and  rent  are  omitted. 


Plowing  12  inches  deep 

$  3.00 

Harrowing 

.30 

Clod  Mashing 

.50 

Furrowing   for   Planting 

1.00 

Seed 

.60 

Growing   the    Plants 

2.00 

Setting  Out 

5.00 

Cultivating  three  times 

1.50 

Hoeing  three  times 

6.75 

Irrigating  four  times 

12.00 

Harvesting  and  Crating  12  ton   crop 

25.00 

Fertilizing 

20.00 

Total  $77.65 

The  yield  of  cabbage  in  California  varies  from  five  to  twenty-five 
tons  per  acre,  the  average  being  between  eight  and  ten  tons.  When 
growing  under  more  favorable  conditions  yields  of  from  fifteen  to 
twenty  tons  per  acre  are  not  unusual  and  occasionally  yields  of  twenty- 
five  tons  are  obtained. 

The  prices  paid  for  cabbage  varies  from  $5  to  $40  per  ton  depend- 
ing largely  upon  the  season  it  is  matured,  and  the  eastern  supply. 
From  October  to  January  the  average  prices  which  cabbage  brings 
varies  from  $5  to  $8  per  ton;  from  January  to  March  the  prices  are 
often  uncertain  and  are  dependent  largely  upon  the  amount  of  cabbage 
held  over  in  storage  in  the  eastern  and  northern  portions  of  the  United 
States.  During  these  months,  from  $30  to  $40  per  ton  is  sometimes 
paid,  although  occasionally  the  values  are  so  low  that  the  crop  is 
never  harvested.  As  a  general  rule,  the  prices  paid  during  the  spring- 
months  vary  from  $10  to  $20  per  ton.  The  demand  during  April, 
May  and  June  is  generally  light  but  occasionally  at  this  season  it 
finds  a  ready  market  at  $20  per  ton.  The  following  table  shows  the 
net  profit  which  should  be  expected  in  California  when  cabbage  is 
grown  under  favorable  conditions. 


17 


Average   yield   per   acre  12  torn 

Average   price   per   ton  $  10.00 


Total    gross    returns    per    acre  $120.00 

Average   cost   of  producing   one   acre   of   cab- 
bage minus  interest  on  land  77.65 


Average    net    returns   per   acre    not    deducting 
nterest  or  rent  $42.35 


As  will  be  seen  in  the  table  showing  the  cost  of  production,  $12 
is  estimated  for  the  cost  of  irrigation  and  $20  is  allowed  for  fertilizing. 
Where  cabbage  is  grown  during  the  winter  the  cost  of  irrigation  is 
generally  cut  in  two  or  omitted  entirely  and  a  large  amount  of  cabbage 
is  grown  in  California  without  the  use  of  fertilizers.  The  figure  which 
is  given  for  the  average  net  profits  per  acre  is  very  conservative  for 
sometimes  the  grower  realizes  as  much  as  $100  net  per  acre. 

DISEASES 

Damping  Off. — This  disease  is  well  known  to  cabbage  growers  in 
California  and  under  certain  conditions  is  the  cause  of  large  losses. 
It  attacks  the  young  plants  while  growing  in  the  seed  bed  and  is 
especialty  severe  from  the  time  the  plants  have  appeared  above  the 
surface  of  the  ground,  until  they  have  grown  their  true  leaves.  This 
trouble  is  first  noticed  b}^  the  appearance  of  a  few  dead  plants 
scattered  throughout  the  bed.  Under  favorable  conditions  the  disease 
spreads  rapidly  from  these  infected  areas  until  the  entire  seed  bed 
has  been  destroyed.  When  a  plant  first  becomes  infected,  growth 
stops  and  the  plants  turn  a  sickly  yellowish  color  as  though  receiving 
insufficient  nourishment.  In  a  short  time  the  leaves  commence  to  curl, 
the  plant  falls  over  as  if  it  had  been  cut  off  at  the  surface  of  the 
ground,  and  usually  dies  in  a  very  short  time. 

Damping  off  is  caused  by  several  different  fungi  which  live  in  the 
soil  generally  near  the  surface.  These  tiny  organisms  work  into  the 
stems  and  roots  where  they  get  their  nourishment  and  cut  off  the 
circulation  of  food  material  through  the  plants.  Like  most  other 
fungi  they  require  moisture,  warmth  and  shade  to  live  and  where 
these  conditions  are  favorable,  their  growth  is  exceedingly  rapid. 

The  successful  control  of  this  disease  is  preventive  rather  than 
curative  in  nature,  for  after  a  plant  has  become  infected  it  is  im- 
possible to  save  it.  The  following  recommendations  are  suggested  for 
the  prevention  of  damping  off:    1,  Avoid  over-crowding  the  plants; 


18 

2,  use  soil  which  will  drain  easily;  put  a  layer  of  sand  or  light  loam 
on  the  surface;  3,  irrigate  in  the  morning  so  as  to  allow  the  tops  of 
the  plants  and  the  surface  of  the  soil  to  become  dry  by  night;  4, 
irrigate  seldom  but  thoroughly  rather  than  putting  on  a  small  amount 
of  water  every  day ;  5,  stir  soil  around  the  plants  after  each  irrigation ; 
6,  keep  the  beds  well  ventilated;  7,  if  disease  has  appeared  isolate 
the  affected  areas  by  digging  a  furrow  six  inches  deep,  or  pour  for- 
malin around  them;  8,  spray  entire  bed  with  Bordeaux  Mixture,  using 
three  pounds  of  blue  stone,  four  pounds  of  lime  to  fifty  gallons  of 
water;  9,  if  the  disease  has  become  established  discard  the  bed  and 
start  a  new  one;  10,  change  the  soil  in  beds  each  year,  especially  if 
damping  off  were  present  the  previous  season. 


INSECT    PESTS 

Root  Knot  {Nematode  Worm). — This  trouble  is  characterized  by 
the  appearance  of  small  galls  or  swellings  on  the  roots,  due  to  the 
invasion  of  pearly  white  bodies  about  the  size  of  a  pin  head  called 
Nematode  Worms.  When  a  plant  has  become  infected,  the  leaves 
turn  a  yellowish,  sickly  color  and  the  plants  gradually  die.  Where 
the  infection  is  very  severe  a  large  part  of  the  root  system  will  be 
found  to  be  completely  rotted  off,  similar  to  the  one  shown  in  figure  7. 
These  worms  live  in  the  soil  and  attack  the  growing  plants.  Several 
methods  of  control  have  been  recommended  such  as  rotation  of  crops, 
fallowing,  flooding  and  application  of  chemicals.  It  is  very  important 
that  the  earth  used  for  seed  beds  be  free  from  invasions  of  this  pest. 

Bursting. — The  bursting  of  the  heads  is  often  troublesome,  especi- 
ally when  the  crop  is  maturing  during  the  hot  weather.  This  condition 
is  also  found  when  growth  is  too  vigorous  after  the  heads  have  formed 
or  when  it  has  been  checked  for  a  time.  Certain  varieties  seem  to  be 
more  susceptible  than  others  to  this  condition.  When  planting  cab- 
bage which  will  mature  during  warm  weather  a  variety  which  is 
partially  resistant  to  heat  should  be  chosen.  When  irrigation  is  prac- 
ticed, the  water  should  be  applied  in  such  a  manner  that  the  growth 
of  the  plants  is  regular,  especially  after  the  heads  have  commenced 
to  form.  If  the  plants  are  maturing  too  rapidly  this  can  be  partially 
overcome  either  by  cutting  off  a  portion  of  the  roots  or  pushing  over 
the  plants  with  the  foot. 

Cabbage  Worm  (Pontia  rapae). — These  worms  are  commonly  found 
in  the  cabbage  fields  of  California  and  they  are  especially  abundant 
during  the  warm  weather.     The  first  indication  of  their  presence  is 


19 


the  appearance  of  holes  in  the  outer  leaves  from  which  the  worm 
gradually  works  into  the  heads,  thus  reducing  their  market  value. 
The  worms  are  of  a  yellowish  green  color  and  when  full  grown  are 


Fig.  7. — Cabbage  affected  by  nematode  worms 
(after  L.  L.  Harter) 


a  little  over  an  inch  in  length.  In  two  or  three  weeks  from  the  time 
they  are  hatched,  they  change  into  chrysalids  which  may  be  found 
among  the  old  bottom  leaves.  The  white  butterflies  which  are  so 
commonly  seen  over  cabbage  fields  emerge  soon  afterwards.     The  eggs 


20 


are  laid  by  the  butterflies  on  the  cabbage  and  other  plants  and  under 
ordinary  conditions  there  are  from  three  to  four  generations  during 
the  season.     The  most  satisfactory  method  of  control  is  by  killing  the 


Fig.  8. — Female  butterfly  of  the  imported  cabbage  worm 
Pontia  rapae  (Linn)  enlarged  one  and  one-half  times  (after 
E.  O.  Essig). 

worms  as  soon  as  possible  after  they  have  hatched  out,  using  either 
of  the  following  sprays : 


Paris  Green 
Air-Slaked  Lime 
Water 


1  pound 

3  pounds 

150    gallons 


Black   Leaf  "40" 
Whale-Oil   Soap 
Water 


II 


1   gallon 

4   pounds 

1000    gallons 


Spray  I  can  be  used  until  the  heads  have  commenced  to  form 
and  from  then  on  II  should  be  applied.  The  spraying  should  be 
repeated  as  often  as  necessary  in  order  to  hold  the  worms  in  check  and 
should  be  applied  in  such  a  manner  that  all  parts  of  the  plant  above 
ground  are  thoroughly  covered. 

Aphis,  {Aphis  brassicae) . — The  cabbage  aphis  or  cabbage  louse 
attacks  the  plants  during  certain  seasons  of  the  year  and  is  especially 
abundant  during  warm  weather.     They  may  be  seen  in  large  masses 


21 


Fig.  9. — The  imported  cabbage  worm  Pontia  rapae  (Linn).  Eggs 
on  nasturtium  leaf  at  top,  enlarged  twice;  larvae  in  the  middle,  natural 
size;    chrysalis   at    the   bottom,    natural  size.     (After  E.  O.  Essig.) 


22 

on  leaves  and  stems,  are  grayish-white  in  color,  and  are  often  covered 
with  a  waxy  powder.  "When  plentiful,  the  aphis  weakens  the  plants 
and  causes  the  leaves  to  curl.  If  the  plants  are  attacked  while  young, 
the  following  spray  will  be  found  effective : 

Kerosene   (Coal  Oil)  5  gallons 

Laundry  Soap  2  pounds 

Water  100  gallons 

If  the  plants  have  headed  or  are  affected  with  the  cabbage  worm  as 
well  as  the  aphis,  a  nicotine  spray  (formula  II)  should  be  used. 

Flea  Beetles,  Diabrotica. — Occasionally  the  plants  will  be  affected 
by  the  Flea  Beetles  while  growing  in  the  seed  bed  or  soon  after 
being  set  out  in  the  field.  These  can  be  successfully  controlled  by 
spraying  immediately  with  Paris  Green   (formula  I). 


STATION  PUBLICATIONS  AVAILABLE  FOR  DISTRIBUTION 


REPORTS 


1897.      Resistant  Vines,  their  Selection,   Adaptation,   and  Grafting.      Appendix  to  Viticultural 
Report  for   1896. 

1902.  Report  of  the  Agricultural   Experiment   Station   for   1898-1901. 

1903.  Report  of  .the  Agricultural   Experiment   Station   for   1901-03. 

1904.  Twenty-second  Report  of  the  Agricultural  Experiment   Station   for   1903-04. 

1914.      Report  of  the  College  of  Agriculture   and  the  Agricultural   Experiment   Station,   July, 
1913-June,  1914. 

BULLETINS 


No. 
168. 

169. 
170. 
174. 

177. 

178. 
182. 

183. 
184. 

185. 

195. 
197. 


198. 
203. 

207. 
208. 
211. 

212. 


Observations    on    Some   Vine   Diseases 

in  Sonoma  County. 
Tolerance  of  the  Sugar  Beet  for  Alkali. 
Studies  in  Grasshopper  Control. 
A  New  Wine-Cooling  Machine. 
A    New   Method    of    Making   Dry    Red 

Wine. 
Mosquito  Control. 
Analysis    of    Paris    Green    and    Lead 

Arsenate.    Proposed  Insecticide  Law. 
The  California  Tussock-Moth. 
Report    of    the    Plant    Pathologist    to 

July   1,    1906. 
Report  of  Progress  in   Cereal   Investi- 
gations. 
The  California  Grape  Root-worm. 
Grape  Culture  in  California;  Improved 

Methods      of     Wine-making;      Yeast 

from   California   Grapes. 
The  Grape  Leaf-Hopper. 
Report    of    the    Plant    Pathologist    to 

July   1,    1906. 
The  Control  of  the  Argentine  Ant. 
The  Late  Blight  of  Celery. 
How  to    Increase   the   Yield   of  Wheat 

in   California. 
California   White   Wheats. 


No. 
213. 
216. 


220. 
225. 
227. 
230. 
234. 
241. 
242. 
243. 

244. 
246. 
248. 

249. 
250. 
251. 


252. 
253. 


254. 
255. 


The  Principles   of  Wine-making. 

A     Progress     Report    upon     Soil     and 

Climatic     Factors      Influencing     the 

Composition  of  Wheat. 
Dosage  Tables. 

Tolerance  of  Eucalyptus  for  Alkali. 
Grape  Vinegar. 
Enological    Investigations. 
Red  Spiders  and  Mites  of  Citrus  Trees. 
Vine  Pruning  in  California.     Part  I. 
Humus  in  California  Soils. 
The  Intradermal  Test  for  Tuberculosis 

in  Cattle  and  Hogs. 
Utilization  of  Waste  Oranges. 
Vine  Pruning  in  California.     Part  II. 
The  Economic  Value  of   Pacific  Coast 

Kelps. 
Stock  Poisoning  Plants  of  California. 
The  Loquat. 

Utilization  'of    the    Nitrogen    and    Or- 
ganic  Matter   in    Septic    and    Imhoff 

Tank  Sludges. 
Deterioration  of  Lumber. 
Irrigation   and   Soil   Conditions   in  the 

Sierra  Nevada  Foothills,  California. 
The  Avocado  in  California. 
The  Citricola  Scale. 


CIRCULARS 

No.  No. 

65.   The  California   Insecticide   Law.  109. 

69.  The   Extermination   of   Morning-Glory. 

70.  Observations    on    the    Status    of    Corn 

Growing  in  California.  110. 

76.   Hot  Room  Callusing.  111. 

79.  List  of  Insecticide  Dealers. 

80.  Boys'  and  Girls'  Clubs.  113. 

82.  The     Common     Ground     Squirrels     of  114. 

California.  115. 

83.  Potato  Growing  Clubs.  117. 

87.  Alfalfa. 

88.  Advantages  to  the  Breeder  in  Testing  118. 

his  Pure-bred  Cows  for  the  Register  119. 

of  Merit.  121. 

91.  Disinfection  on  the  Farm. 

92.  Infectious    Abortion    and    Sterility    in  122. 

Cows. 

100.  Pruning  Frosted  Citrus  Trees.  123. 

101.  Codling    Moth    Control    in    the    Sacra- 

mento Valley.  124. 

106.  Directions  for  using  Anti-Hog-Cholera  125. 

Serum.  126. 

107.  Spraving  Walnut  Trees  for  Blight  and  127. 

Aphis  Control.  128. 

108.  Grape  Juice.  129. 

130. 


Community  or  Local  Extension  Work 
by  the  High  School  Agricultural  De- 
partment. 

Green  Manuring  in  California. 

The  Use  of  Lime  and  Gypsum  on  Cali- 
fornia Soils. 

Correspondence  Courses  in  Agriculture. 

Increasing  the  Duty  of  Water. 

Grafting  Vinifera  Vineyards. 

The  Selection  and  Cost  of  a  Small 
Pumping  Plant. 

The  County  Farm  Bureau 

Winery  Directions. 

Some  Things  the  Prospective  Settler 
Should  Know. 

The  Management  of  Strawberry  Soils 
in  Pajaro  Valley. 

Fundamental  Principles  of  Co-opera- 
tion in  Agriculture. 

Alfalfa  Silage  for  Fattening  Steers. 

Aphids  on  Grain  and  Cantaloupes. 

Spraying  for  the  Grape  Leaf  Hopper. 

House  Fumigation. 

Insecticide   Formulas. 

The  Control  of  Citrus  Insects. 

Cabbage  Growing  in  California. 


